Southern Africa

Southern Africa Trip June 25-July 7, 2003 South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Zambia

“You’re living an adventure” said the email from a friend I had read a few hours earlier at the Johannesburg International Airport while waiting for a flight to Victoria Falls.

Later that evening, my first ever in Africa, I was in an open air thatched chalet near Livingstone, Zambia preparing for bed by tying the mosquito net tightly around my bed. Just before turning out the light, I noticed a note on the table by my bed. “Beware” it said. “Crocodiles, elephants and hippos can be found in the area at night. Elephants and hippos are unpredictable animals and when disturbed they do attack. We cannot emphasize enough that these are wild animals and are extremely dangerous. Please be alert, especially at night, and suggest your using a flashlight when moving about outside.” Then there was the p.s. to the note: “Also, please keep your door shut and do not feed monkeys!” Just as I finished reading the note, I noticed a warthog walking past my chalet and I realized that I was indeed living an adventure of a lifetime!

On a game drive near Kasane, Botswana.

I had started planning my Africa trip several months before my June 25^th departure by researching possible destinations on the internet. By the time of my arrival I decided on the following itinerary: two days at Victoria Falls, four days on a photo safari in Botswana, a night and a day in Pretoria, South Africa and a four day finale in Cape Town, South Africa.

He ain't heavy....he's my brother!!

VICTORIA FALLS

Discovered by British missionary Dr. David Livingstone in 1855, Victoria Falls is widely known as one of the “great natural wonders of the world”. Nearly a mile across and 400 yards deep, words can hardly describe the beauty of this great wonder once called the “smoke that thunders” by local tribes. The spray of the falls and the accompanying rainbows can be seen from miles away. But when up close, one cannot grasp the complete grandeur and vastness of the falls unless they view them from the air.

	After a helicopter ride above the falls, I hiked about two miles on the Zambian side (the falls border Zambia and Zimbabwe) down to a place called the Devil’s Pot. The surrounding rain forest gave the appearance of paradise until this out-of-shape writer had to make the two mile trek back to the top.
Victoria Falls. This photo was taken from a helicopter.

That evening, I was treated to a “sundowner cruise” down the mighty Zambezi River, a tradition in the area. While cruising down the river sipping fine South African wine, numerous animals were spotted taking an evening drink along the river.

While Victoria Falls borders Zambia and Zimbabwe, I immediately went to the Zambia side after landing at the Victoria Falls Airport on the Zimbabwe side. Apparently I was not alone. After two decades of rule by murderous dictator Robert Mugabe, tourists are staying away in droves. “Tourism is now almost non-existent in Zimbabwe” said Karien Kermer, a local tour guide. “It will take another leader and another twenty years to correct the problems in Zimbabwe” she said. Staying in Zambia proved to be a great choice. I visited the Livingstone Museum in the morning and in the afternoon visited the Maramba Market, a mega outdoor market which is Zambia’s answer to the Wal-Mart Super Center. “There’s not much you can’t find here” said Mrs. Kermer.


The bridge just below Victoria Falls. The bridge is the crossing from Zimbabwe to Zambia.	My chalet at the Maramba River Lodge!

Aside from Victoria Falls, the highlight of my time in Zambia was a visit to Simonga Village, home of the Lozi Tribe. Accompanied by tribe member Lassie Mubiana, I was touched to learn the customs and lifestyle of the tribe. While everyone lives in simple mud huts with a thatched roof, family and respect for elders seems to be of utmost importance. While entering the huts, Lassie would clap her hands, bow and greet the woman of the house with “hey momma,” which she explained is a sign of respect. Another interesting thing I learned was that prospective grooms pay a dowry for their intended brides.

"My dowry will be pretty high" Lassie said. "I have some education, so my dowry will be about ten heads of cattle" she explained. While I did not get to meet Chief Sikute, Lassie did introduce me to Inonge, the head lady. Most of the rare disputes in this tribe of 3,000 are mediated by Inonge. However, during my visit, this charming lady was repairing her hut with a mixture of mud and cow dung.
	Lassie Mubiana and some family members

For lunch I headed back to Livingstone and nearly fainted when I glanced at the menu. “Fish and Chips-25,000 Kwacha” which is the local currency. I was relieved to learn that the exchange rate is nearly 5,000 Kwacha per one U.S. Dollar.

After another night at the Maramba River Lodge, I was off to Botswana the next morning to start my safari!

BOTSWANA

Many years ago, the government of Botswana decided to set aside over two thirds of the country for the preservation of wildlife. That decision will probably result in a wonderful legacy for generations to come. I arrived at the Chobe Safari Lodge around 10:30 a.m. and was immediately ready to depart for my first game drive. The Great White Hunter, I was armed with a Minolta 35mm camera and had plenty of ammo (35mm film). I was not disappointed.

Along the banks of the Chobe River, and further in “the bush,” I photographed dozens of species of animals including elephants, hippos, lions, crocodiles, warthogs, kudus, African buffaloes, impalas, sable, puku, lechue, steenbok, water monitors and lots of baboons and vervet monkeys.

Several species of birds were spotted including fish eagles, African darters, pied kingfisher, reed cormorant, jacana and saddle billed storks.

	It’s difficult to explain the adrenaline rush I experienced when my expedition came upon a pride of lions stalking a herd of sable. The female members of the pride fanned out in order to determine the weakest member of the herd and to surround it for the kill. The male lion stayed about 100 yards behind the pride.

When the female members of the pride make the kill, the male moves in to eat first, and then the rest of the pride eats! I suppose it's a tough life for the King of the Jungle!

SOUTH AFRICA

After four days on safari, I was off to the airport to fly back to Johannesburg. At the airport I was met by Joy Dean, (http://www.joyrides.co.za/) a charming local tour guide who was to escort me around Johannesburg and Pretoria.


The Union Building. Pretoria, South Africa

We had spent less than two hours in Johannesburg before I decided that I had seen enough squalor and was ready to get to my hotel for some rest. The next morning, Joy picked me up and we started the day by visiting the Premier Diamond Mine near Cullinan. A number of famous gems have been found at Cullinan, including the Star of Africa, which is set in the Royal Scepter and the Imperial Crown of Great Britain. Other Cullinan gems can be found in the Crown Jewels of Thailand. After an outstanding hour long tour of the mine, we moved on to Pretoria, the capitol of South Africa and one of its most beautiful cities. As we moved about the city, Joy explained that many Americans visit South Africa because of its outstanding rates for various forms of surgery, especially cosmetic surgery. “We call it scalpel and safari--you get your face lift and then we whisk you off to the bush where no one will see you until your scars have healed” joked Ms. Dean.


Rust En Vrede Wine Cellar!	A vineyard near Cape Town.	Joy Dean shows off Pretoria

That evening, it was back to the airport to fly to Cape Town. I was met by one of the best tour guides I have ever met, Selwyn Davidowitz. (http://www.ilovecapetown.com) “Welcome to Cape Town” said Davidowitz. “This is one of the most un-African cities in Africa” he said.

I was soon to see how right Davidowitz was! On the first day of my stay in Cape Town, after checking into the Breakwater Lodge, a 19th Century prison converted into a hotel, we headed for the cape wine lands, an area north of Cape Town which produces some of the finest wine in the world. At the Rust en Vrede Wine Estate near Stellenbosch, I was delighted to taste several wines including the 2000 Tinta Barocca, 2000 Shiraz, 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, and an outstanding “Estate Blend” vintages 1999 and 2000. Even though it was winter in South Africa at the time of my visit, the wine lands area was still an extremely beautiful area to visit. “The scenery, history, flora and beauty of the wine lands equates the beauty of the wine farms” said Davidowitz.

	The following day, I was off to the Cape of Good Hope, the southwestern most point on the continent of Africa. Along the way were many beautiful coastline communities including Kalk Bay, Fish Hoek and Simonstown. Of particular interest was Boulders, which is home to a 3,000 member African Penguin colony. I was able to get within about 20 feet of the penguins, which were the first I had ever seen!
The Cape of Good Hope

I started my next to last day in Cape Town with a cable car ride to the top of Table Mountain, with its breathtaking views of Cape Town and its surrounding communities. Then I was off to the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront, which greatly resembles a huge shopping mall on the water’s edge. After lunch, I concluded my city tour with a trip to the Robben Island Prison, formerly the home of Nelson Mandela. While the site itself is interesting, I was greatly disappointed with this portion of the tour in that the guides used the allotted time to disseminate propaganda and make political speeches and charged an outrageous entrance fee to do so. Potential visitors to Robben Island, beware of this tourist trap! Robben Island aside, Cape Town was a fascinating place to visit!


The lighthouse at Cape Point.	Overlooking the Penguin colony at Boulders.

As the official South African web site correctly states, “in South Africa, one finds the world's strangest and most dramatic landscapes, a unique wealth of animal and plant life, a treasure of gold, diamonds and other minerals, and a kaleidoscope of fascinating cultures.” With an exchange rate of between 7-8 Rand per one U.S. Dollar, South Africa remains an outstanding bargain for American travelers.

Indeed, I was fortunate to be living “an adventure of a lifetime!”


Downtown Cape Town with Table Mountain overlooking the city.	Petting cheetahs at The Cheetah Foundation, near Cape Town.	"The Twelve Apostles" overlooking Camp's Bay.